Fred Perry and the Casuals: how a tennis polo became a symbol of subculture

There are brands that choose their subculture. And there are brands that are chosen by it.

Fred Perry was chosen. And not once – several times. In different decades, by completely different groups, for completely different reasons. And the polo always stayed the same.

The man behind the polo

Frederick John Perry was born in 1909 in Stockport, the son of a cotton spinner. He wasn't from a wealthy family, nor did he have easy access to tennis courts – a sport that, in England, was an elite pursuit. That didn't stop him from becoming the greatest British tennis player of all time.

Eight Grand Slams, three consecutive Wimbledons, world number one for years. In 1952, already retired, he launched his own sportswear brand in partnership with Austrian Tibby Wegner. The polo with the laurel wreath embroidered on the chest – the same one that exists today, practically unchanged.

On the courts, it was elite sportswear. In the English football stands of the 70s and 80s, it became something completely different.

The Perry Boys of Manchester

We've already written here about the casual subculture – English football fans who swapped hooligan uniforms for European designer brands. Manchester City fans were among the first to widely adopt Fred Perry. They became known as the Perry Boys.

The irony is delicious: a tennis brand, an elite British sport, being appropriated by the working class of Manchester as a symbol of identity. Perry was the son of a spinner who reached the top. The Perry Boys were the sons of workers who wanted to reach the top. The connection makes sense, even if it was never intentional.

The Mods: the first appropriation

Before the Casuals, there were the Mods. In the 60s, the British Mod movement – obsessed with American soul music, Italian scooters, and immaculate clothing – adopted Fred Perry as a central part of their wardrobe. The clean, unadorned polo perfectly matched the Mod aesthetic: elegant without being formal, sporty without being casual.

Bands like The Who and The Jam wore Fred Perry on stage. The connection between the brand and British music was established.

Skinheads and Britpop

In the 70s, the skinhead subculture – originally a multicultural British working-class movement, before being appropriated by far-right groups – adopted Fred Perry as a uniform. The polo, the braces, the Dr. Martens. An aesthetic that is still recognizable today.

In the 90s, Britpop brought Fred Perry back into the mainstream. Damon Albarn of Blur and Liam Gallagher of Oasis wore it as a uniform. It was British working-class clothing with attitude – exactly what Britpop represented.

Each generation found something different in it. The polo stayed the same.

The M3600 – the original

The M3600 polo has been the same since 1952, with minor variations in color and detail. Two buttons, ribbed collar, the laurel wreath embroidered on the left chest. It is one of the most copied pieces in fashion history and remains inimitable in its original form.

The difference between an original M3600 and a copy is immediately obvious to those who know what to look for: the weight of the cotton, the quality of the embroidery, the fit. It's not nostalgia – it's construction.

How to wear the polo today

The Fred Perry polo has a rare quality: it works in completely different contexts without looking out of place.

Casual – With dark shorts and clean trainers in summer. Simple, effective, timeless.

Smart casual – With chino trousers and leather shoes. The polo replaces the shirt without losing its presence.

Streetwear – With work trousers and trainers. The connection to casual subculture makes it a natural piece in this context.

If you have one, you know what we're talking about. If you don't, you know where to get one – we have the complete collection here.